You may have discovered a local company that sharpens your knives well and at a reasonable price. We have no intention of destroying a good relationship, but if you are unsatisfied with your cutting we highly recommend the factory authorized and only US importer of Morso, Tech Mark.
They will hollow grind your knives to original factory specs and could well put your chopper into a whole new class of machine. Be forewarned that if your knives have been being flat ground there will be an additional charge to get them back into spec the first time, but we believe it's worth it.
While technically you can make a tight joint with one 44° corner and one 46°, they will not line up correctly on either the inside or outside, so it's important to check each side of the cut individually.
Here's the method we use:
- Get a piece of flat stock (such as strainer). Something 1½" to 3" wide and ¼" to ½" thick works great. Cut the right end of it (with the left blade)
- Cut a piece 3 to 6" long (the best length will vary based on the width of material and how big your square is)
- Now take that piece, flip it over and re-cut the second end, but with the left blade. Now you will have a piece where both ends were cut with the same knife and angle. This will double any error, making it easier to see and correct
- Hold the two 45° angles against the inside surfaces of an accurate square. A machinist's scale is preferable. Observe if there is a gap at the inside or outside:
- If there is a gap at the point the angle is too obtuse. With a chopper, you will need to loosen the fence and push it away from you. For a saw, check your manual for applicable adjustments
- If the gap is on the inside the angle is too acute and you will need to pull the chopper fence towards you
- Re-cut both ends, re-check and repeat until you can't see light anywhere
- Start over at point 1. for the other side
See the chopper adjustments page for tips on setting the blade height and tightness, as well as the chopping height.
Let's face it, the standard Morso accommodation for chip removal is nothing to brag about (there is none!). Not only that, but if you prefer to locate your chopper with its back against a wall you will have to move the chopper every time you want to empty the chips. Unless you do something like this:
Our simple solution is to raise the chopper a few inches and put a drawer underneath it to catch the chips. A couple of key points:
- Make sure that the inside dimension of the drawer is larger than the opening in the bottom of the chopper
- Unless your framers have really long legs, you probably want to extend a platform big enough to comfortably stand on while chopping
- You may want to close off the back of the chopper as well as you can − those chips fly everywhere and after several years you will have a big pile behind the chopper